Niyamgiri Hills – The Abode of the Dongaria Kondha Tribe
The Southwestern belt of Odisha is a rich melting point for different tribes. Niyamgiri Hills is one of the prominent place for the tribal community. The tribes bonded through their primal beliefs, ancestral anecdotes, and animism practices. The tribes reside away from the shadow of technology and modern civilization. A deep reverence for nature and ceremonial animal sacrifices are a common thread connecting the Odisha Hill Tribes.
I read about how fiercely the Dongaria Kondha tribe revolted against Mining Giant Vedanta. The company planned on stripping the hills of its natural resources for their selfish gain of bauxite mining. It meant merciless assault to the fabric of co-existence between the tribes and their natural habitat. It took years of protest on the streets to reclaim their rights through a landmark judgement. Flipping through these narratives and stories, I was fascinated to know more, leading me to Chatikona.
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Table of Contents
Chatikona – A Remote Tribal Settlement
Chatikona is a remote tribal settlement meekly existing on the Niyamgiri Hills. It is a mysterious world, tucked in the crevices of nature and home to the indigenous Dongaria Kondha Tribe. As the bus screeched to a halt, my bout with the rickety ride was over, and I stepped down, trying to escape the dust. Oh! Only if I knew it was just the beginning of my journey to remote villages in Chatikona.
The journey from Rayagada to Chatikona quickly changed terrains from flatlands to a long chain of hills. The landscapes laid intermittently with cotton cultivation. The start of the Eastern Ghats mellowed the air as we ventured into the expansive tribal belt of Odisha.
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Tribal Weekly Markets of Chatikona
As I walked further in, the local weekly market ran in full swing. Local markets’ sight has significantly dwindled in the cities, with more prominent brands and online shopping dominating the space. However, a fully functional local market in such remote vicinity reflected a larger community picture.
The morning started as usual, with valley and hill tribe dwellers arriving from their remote homes to the main market arena. Every essential product from local vegetables, fruits, chicken, utensils, brooms, and daily utilities was available. The market presented a kaleidoscope picture of homegrown produces sold by the indigenous Dongaria Kondha tribe and vagabonds arriving from different tribal belts of the state.
It was easy to identify ladies from the Dongaria Kondha tribe with their traditional ornamentation and saree drape style. The markets sprung to life by noon with a constant uproar as the locals arrived from their hill abode for their weekly shopping. The Kondha women walked around the market or back home, loading their purchases in a basket, carefully balanced on their head. After taking a couple of locally brewed alcohol and food, a siesta followed before people headed back home before dusk.
Beyond Bissamcuttack –Home of Dongaria Kondha Tribes
The true essence of the Dongaria Kondha tribe starts beyond the crossing of the Bissamcuttack railway station. As I crossed the railway station to the other side, people eyed me with particular oddity. Well, it was pretty evident that Chatikona did not attract many tourists or regular travelers. Walking through the narrow dusty country lanes took me to another mini tribal market. It was the gateway to the remote villages nestled amidst the slopes of Niyamgiri Hills.
Niyamgiri Hills is a cluster of multiple villages, making it one of the most significant tribal inhabited hills in Odisha. The local tribal people commute from their homes to the market and back on a commander jeep, designed perfectly for the hilly terrains. People commute seated inside and atop the jeep as well as hanging around the vehicle.
Like the locals, I hopped into one of the commander jeeps, except I hired the full jeep to slow travel to the remote villages, up in the hills. As the jeep shakily drove past the market, the mobile towers gradually dropped, entering a digitally cut off cluster of villages.
Exploring the remote villages of Niyamgiri Hills 
Tribal woman making a broom
Dongaria Kondha Tribe – Unsung Heroes of Niyamgiri Hills
The indomitable spirit of the tribe brought them a remarkable win against a decade long battle against Vedanta Resources. They survived through all the harassment and torture and stopped the mining giant from denuding the hills for Bauxite. Niyamgiri Hills – The tribe believes it more than home; it is where the shadow of their ancestral spirit bestows the community with abundance. The tribe fiercely protested against destroying the Niyamgiri Hills – Abode of Niyam Raja, which they worship as their mountain God.
Occupation of Dongaria Kondha Tribe of Niyamgiri Hills
The picturesque beauty of Niyamgiri Hills lies beyond the din of the market. Deep into the dense forest, another world slowly unfolds – through the cascading streams, hidden waterfalls, and deep gorges. The villages are small settlement with a cluster of few homes. Most of the homes have traditional symbolic drawings representing culture beliefs and values. The villages are scattered across the hills. Each town has a similar structure.
The homes are humble huts, mainly with an earthen floor. Narrow room and low ceiling adorns the huts. Most of the village has an open area with huts clustered adjacent to each other on both sides. Farming thrives on being one of the significant occupations with forest orchards booming in banana, ginger, jackfruit, papaya etc. cultivation. The fertile soil of Niyamgiri Hills produces wild pineapples, jackfruit, and rare medicinal herbs. The tribe sustains majorly from the food and therapeutic herb resources from the forest.
Several ailments and disease are treated using herbs and medicinal plants from the forest. Local people consume sago palm tree as an energy drink. The local tribe sustain by selling their farm produce and bamboo woven products in the market.
Keeping the Tradition Alive
Not only the tribe stand united, guarding their revered hills and forest but keep their traditions and customs alive. The women of the Dongaria Kondha tribe adorn their neck with a beaded necklace, wear three nose rings, multiple earrings, and clips in their hair. Distinctive tattoos are part of their face. Most women in their routine life drape a sari around without a blouse, baring their back.
However, this tradition is slowly fading, with the younger generation refusing to tattoo their face and wear ornaments, clips, and nose rings. A lot of younger people are even moving out in search of better opportunities. The older generation is still holding on to the tradition, with a handful of younger ones adopting it.
Vagabond women with their market product Beauty of Niyamgiri Hills
Worship of Mountain God and Rituals
The community and tribe believe the mountain is protected by Niyam Raja – The Mountain God. The people worship Niyam Raja and consider themselves as their royal descendants. The tribe worship nature and avidly follow the ritual and practices of Animism.
Animal sacrifices are part of different ceremonies and done during the worship of Niyam Raja and Goddess Dharni. The sacrifices are ritualistic practice before and after the harvest season and for the villages’ prosperity. Mostly chicken, goat, pigs, or buffalos are offered for sacrifices.
Fight Against All Odds to Protect their Homes
The tribe has set an example as true warriors by fighting against Vedanta Resources. Niyamgiri Hills holds a massive amount of Bauxite underneath, and the UK-based mining giant has plans to set up a bauxite mining plant. It meant the local tribe is losing their sacred mountains and resources to the industrial plant’s greedy eyes.
Dongaria Kondha Tribe lived in harmony and symbiotic relationship with the Niyamgiri Hills. The tribe, for a decade, depended on the forest resource – it’s their home, the forest is their place of worship. However, the peaceful existence between the tribe and hills & forest was threatened with setting up the alumina refinery for bauxite mining.
However, the undying spirit of Dongaria Kondha Tribe and their relentless fight against bauxite mining a forest clearance lasted for around ten years. Thousands of people came on the streets to protest. During the vociferous rebel against environment clearance, people suffered atrocities and brutal abuse. However, the fight only strengthened, and it continued until the Supreme Court of India recognized the rights of the people and their respect for the hills.
On leaving the decision to the 12 village councils, asynchronous “No” was delivered by all. Despite the pressure and threats from Vedanta and brutalities from police, the Dongaria Kondha tribe emerged as the winner with a landmark judgement. Finally, in January 2014, the ten-year-long battle paid off in favour of the tribe as the Vedanta Project was cancelled.
How to Reach Chatikona?
The nearest railway head for Chatikona is Rayagada. It is well connected from all prominent places in Odisha and the country. Chatikona is around 40 km from Rayagada, and local buses are available at regular interval. Another option is hiring a taxi for the day, but that will be a slightly expensive option.
Is it Recommended to Travel to Chatikona Alone?
Chatikona is a tribal belt, and outsiders might find it challenging to navigate through the remote settlements. Plus, it is not recommended to go alone as one of would be clueless about things. It is best to look for a guide before a tour or go with someone who has an idea about the place. Mr Ajit Swain accompanied me from Dedicated to People, and his awareness about the area made it easy to explore the remote villages.
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